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Eddie's Unimog!

Just picked this truck up from Expedition Outfitters in Oklahoma, the cab has been stretched 14 inches for more interior room and to make room for the comfy seats.  The bed was custom made with drop down back and sides that are completely removable. I have some kinky French windows for the front glass that pivots out at the bottom for added ventilation, like the old Volkswagen busses (surfer style). Also the custom roll bar which isn't quite done yet. I have a BIGGER winch for the front and a winch for the back I will be installing soon.  I really love the tires, aprox 39 inches high, cant wait to see em chew up the mud... 

The other Unimog ready for the road after a complete to the frame restoration..  

Jason Frankel's Unimog

The two Mogs seem pretty happy together.

Mike Gives the Unimog with the newly rebuilt motor a run, we use it here at the shop to run errands, the guys that work for me love to drive it because folks always NOTICE them. (picking up women made easy)...

I was able to obtain a 24volt military winch from a guy that found it at auction, we made a steel plate that bolts to the Unimog frame to mount the winch on. To mount the winch here between the frame rails I had to remove the pintle hook and cut out the pintle hook brace. But its nice to have a rear winch.

The BIGDOG mercedes winch for the front of the Unimog, I cant believe the size of this monster. Look a that hook! 


Mike Cobb's Unimog pulling a cool Unimog trailer.

The new SWISS MOG in town!  Owned by Stacy Horn.

 Eddie's Unimog

 Jason's Unimog

 Eddie's new Unimog

New Unimog Turn signals


When my Unimog was stolen it was left stuck in a mud pit with mud at hood level. After it was returned to me with a blown motor my truck sat for months as we waited for the new motor and waited for us to rebuild it. All that sitting took its toll on the electrical goodies in the truck.

After getting it on the road, we were only able to make the turn signals and emergency flashers work intermittently. I spent hours cleaning contacts, filing the metal connections on the fuseblock and light bulb connectors, finally I decided to tear out the masses of wiring and rebuild the circuit a little simpler.

This is what I did.


trying to clean my original turn signal switch made it come apart and I had a hard time getting it to stay together again. So I bought some of the simple light up bat handle toggle switches. Before, with the old switch, I was always leaving the turn signals on by mistake, these bat handle switches light up in time to the turn signals so with them flashing at me I am much less likely to leave the blinkers on like I used to.  I originally was going to use HEAVY DUTY switches or maybe another real MOG turn signal switch, but playing with these cheapo light up switches made me really like them for this application!  Left switch up is left turn, right switch up is right turn, both switches up is emergency flashers.

Excuse my poor graphics, but this is the simple circuit I created instead of the masses of wiring that went to the old turn signal switch and the old emergency flasher switch. I used the original black flasher relay (pictured below) which I opened up and cleaned out.

I did not use the silver can behind it.

Much simpler than the original design, and with the flashing of the switches I don't leave the signals on by mistake anymore. I also chose a fuse for power that is switched off with the key, so now I cant leave the turn signal on all day like I used to, I'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about.  ;-)

I will also be adding some dash LEDs to the turn signal circuit, when I do I will post it here. I know the switches I used were cheapos, I always hated those crappy switches, but they really do work well for this case. Now, how long will the lights in the switches work? They are 12 volt switches with 12 volt lights!  I don't know, I bought some extra switches, so far its been working about a month without a problem....

12 Volt tap on a 24volt system

Lots of folks buy expensive 24volt to 12 volt converters to power their 12 volt goodies in a 24volt truck. This is the simple way that I do it without the converter.

Make sure your tap is on the 12volt positive (+) of the battery that grounds to the frame of the vehicle.  (make sure you tap the right battery!) I attached a 10 gauge wire and ran it up front. Notice the FUSE in the black plastic fuse holder.

I installed a fancy 12 volt fuse box, right now I only have a GPS powered by it but I have 4 fuses and will be adding my CB and HAM radio soon. 


YOU MUST NOT USE YOUR BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH, doing so will blow the battery fuse on your 12 volt tap (good thing we put that fuse in there!!), 
I disabled my battery switch so this wont happen. 
(I would rather have 12volts than a battery cuttoff anyway)

To be fair, I must mention alot of folks don't like doing this, I have done it on several unimogs and a 24v military Humvee without any problems. I only advise running electronics that have a small current draw, no fog lights, no electric winches and such. They might work but I'm not giving you any guarantees. The small stuff I run works great and I have been doing this for years without any problems at all, in fact these are the same batteries I put in my Unimog after I first got it a few years ago and they are still fine. Some folks say one battery will be overcharged by hooking up this way but since both batteries are charged equally I really don't see how it could cause any problems, specially with such small current draw and specially since I use the electronics only while the truck is running. 
I say BULL, it works great!

12 Volt lights on a 24volt system

Sometimes its hard to find 24volt lights for an old army truck. In my Unimog I often use 2 12 volt lights wired in series. 12 volt lights are cheap and easy to find.

Here are some Hella 500s,  since they draw a fair amount of amperage, I didn't want to use a 12 volt tap off of one battery or use an expensive 24 to 12 volt converter, so I wired them in series.

I also did the same thing with the added Brake lights.
(I still have the MOG brake lights but I added these for a little more light)
With the cover off, see how simple it is?

and even the license plate light.

I simply bought the 12 volt license plate light and an extra bulb, opened it up and soldered in the second bulb with a series circuit, and presto, a 24volt light!  Works great!

This is the simple series circuit! This only works if both lights are exactly the same, if you try using two completely different lights then one might be brighter than the other, but as long as the lights are the same, this works great. You can also use this circuit for your Unimog headlights if you want to use 12 volt lights, but you will have to rewire them.


You can use several circuits like this, one for driving lights, one for fog lights, one for brake lights, one for backup lights, and more...


Good luck!

Unimog Clutch Work
Don't try this at home kids!

Unimogs are not NORMAL vehicles ! Normally to work on the clutch of a vehicle it is a simple matter to drop the drive shaft, unbolt the tranny and pull it out. Replace the bad parts inside and reverse the procedure.


The Unimog has a drive shaft that is not easily droppable! And the clutch parts come out by removing the engine instead! WOW! What a pain!

Someone told me the Cab has to be removed to pull the engine! AARRGH! But, according to the Unimog service manual and the Unimog Guru Craig Tull, the motor can be scooted forward enough to change the clutch parts!

First chore is to remove the mogs hood and front glass and all the floor panels of the cab. Then drain the coolant (there is alot of it!) and pull the Air compressor (if you have one) the Radiator (first take off the bottom skid plate and the heat exchanger!) and the fan....

with radiator and other goodies removed there is alot of space to work with! I also removed the air cleaner. And a whole tangle of heater hoses! (they go everywhere!)

Next remove the valve cover and ya gotta remove the oil filter from the left rear of the engine.

We used two hand pulleys, one attached to a bolt on the front of the block and one attached to the rear of the block. We hooked the top of the pulleys to the strong rafters in our shop since we didn't have an engine hoist. We pulled up the engine a bit until it was free and then pushed the MOG backwards so the hanging engine would pop free of the bell housing...

Got the new parts on the engine and aligned and now just to slip it all back together. Easy as pie!

Our homemade alignment tool! I filed on a craftsman screwdriver with the bench grinder to make a clutch alignment tool, My Mac Tool man wanted to sell me an alignment tool but we were not sure which one worked, when he comes by next week I will certainly tell him I got it from Sears! ha ha. (Sears doesn't have clutch alignment tools)...


Thats a 30 inch high concrete slab!    No way, it looks too big
Piece a cake   What bump???
Pictures of the Unimog practicing on a 28inch high concrete slab near downtown Houston (used to be a big mansion)...
The Concrete slab doesn't look all that big in the pictures but let me tell you it is a whopper! I take city folks over to this place and teach them proper respect for the unimog... ;-)

This looks scary to the average fellow but the Unimog climbs this small
obstacle with utmost ease! The driver in these pictures (not a Mog owner)
thought the truck would fall over! NO WAY!
I think the truck even smiles and purrs when
playing on stuff like this!



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