From cjguiao at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 03:04:56 2010
From: cjguiao at gmail.com (Christopher Guiao)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 01:04:56 -0700
Subject: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <870226.85062.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <870226.85062.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>

I haven't dug into this project yet, but I'll be in the california bay area
this weekend and if I can scrape up the funds, I'll pick up a transmission
from EI. Does anyone have the weight for one of these things without the
bellhousing? I have a very heavy, outfitted radio box, which I plan to leave
in place. As for the clutch, I was told it was new by the previous owner,
but I'll see for myself soon enough. How many man hours can I expect for the
tranny replacement, considering I haven't done it before? I've swapped
engines, trannys, axles etc before but never on a mog. With enough luck I
still might make it to truckhaven mogfest!

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:59 PM, Richard Sims <mog404 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Christopher--
>
> Unless you've already done it.  You don't have to remove the bed or the
> box.  I've changed 404 trannys several times by just putting jack stands
> under the front frame and using a 1500 lb engine hoist to remove the cab and
> then the engine/trans combo.  I've done this as a one man job. You do have
> to drop the steering column and the front axle.  You can hook on to the cab
> according to the manual using the grab handles and a sling.  One of the
> problems I had was getting the floor board of the cab past the brake pedal,
> but that was easily solved by opening a bleed valve and tying the pedal
> down.   I separated the rear drive shaft at the universal joint.  As
> previously suggested, its financially prudent and efficient to go ahead and
> replace  the clutch and throw out at this time. If you have the facilities
> available, resurface the flywheel too!
>
> Richard Sims
> 404 Troop
> Northridge, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>

From joe.obremski at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 04:34:20 2010
From: joe.obremski at gmail.com (Joe O'Bremski)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 02:34:20 -0700
Subject: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <870226.85062.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinW1WwwtkDL2PbnFECw8bw1A+=a1g+XeMP0xGG+@mail.gmail.com>

We took a day and a half with 2 guys at the base hobby shop.  We might have
gotten done sooner but our bay was not stocked with tools very well.  You
might find a 17mm 1/2" drive socket but only a 3/8" ratchet that half the
time would not ratchet, then a 11/16" deep socket that would not fit and
have to revert to a open/box end wrench or worse yet alot was completed with
a crecent wrench.  I think half a day was looking for tools.  The lift was
invaluable so was the long reach cherry picker that could not only lift the
motor from the front but reach all the way back to lift the tranny and pull
it up and out forward.



-- 
Joe O'Bremski
'66 Mercedes-Benz 404 Unimog
702-339-8290
YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/jobremski

From joe.obremski at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 04:38:36 2010
From: joe.obremski at gmail.com (Joe O'Bremski)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 02:38:36 -0700
Subject: [MOG] MOAB 2010 BABY!
Message-ID: <AANLkTinjUX62x=1_VdgQpbs0pxHE+vZHHoXjLj2=Ypbg@mail.gmail.com>

Well it's almost here!  Moab!  We are leaving Vegas Friday night and should
arrive Saturday morning stopping somewhere along the way (where ever we pass
out).  We will be there Sept 4th to Sept 13th heading out the morning of the
13th.  If anyone is in the area and wants to wheel we will be staying at the
Sliprock campgrounds.  Should be a great time and not sure what day but
we'll be frying a turkey one night and likely going to Milt's every other
night.  If I don't make it back, it's because I had a heart attack :)

-- 
Joe O'Bremski
'66 Mercedes-Benz 404 Unimog
702-339-8290
YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/jobremski

From kimosawboy1 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 30 10:32:16 2010
From: kimosawboy1 at hotmail.com (gerald vavra)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:32:16 -0700
Subject: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <870226.85062.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
	<AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU106-W26635A44735C020CE8BBCEEF890@phx.gbl>


When I did my tranny last year I think the weight on the weigh bill was 450lb (in crate).
Look at 2 days with 2 guys should give you ample time. Just make sure you have all the extra bits you might need, I'm sure Scott will hook you up right. Also make sure you have ample lifting straps, chains,jacks.........
Good luck

G. Vavra 
66 404.1 Doka 
71 416 with Crane
Courtenay, BC



> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 01:04:56 -0700
> From: cjguiao at gmail.com
> To: mog at tx4x4.com
> Subject: Re: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
> 
> I haven't dug into this project yet, but I'll be in the california bay area
> this weekend and if I can scrape up the funds, I'll pick up a transmission
> from EI. Does anyone have the weight for one of these things without the
> bellhousing? I have a very heavy, outfitted radio box, which I plan to leave
> in place. As for the clutch, I was told it was new by the previous owner,
> but I'll see for myself soon enough. How many man hours can I expect for the
> tranny replacement, considering I haven't done it before? I've swapped
> engines, trannys, axles etc before but never on a mog. With enough luck I
> still might make it to truckhaven mogfest!
> 
> On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:59 PM, Richard Sims <mog404 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> > Christopher--
> >
> > Unless you've already done it.  You don't have to remove the bed or the
> > box.  I've changed 404 trannys several times by just putting jack stands
> > under the front frame and using a 1500 lb engine hoist to remove the cab and
> > then the engine/trans combo.  I've done this as a one man job. You do have
> > to drop the steering column and the front axle.  You can hook on to the cab
> > according to the manual using the grab handles and a sling.  One of the
> > problems I had was getting the floor board of the cab past the brake pedal,
> > but that was easily solved by opening a bleed valve and tying the pedal
> > down.   I separated the rear drive shaft at the universal joint.  As
> > previously suggested, its financially prudent and efficient to go ahead and
> > replace  the clutch and throw out at this time. If you have the facilities
> > available, resurface the flywheel too!
> >
> > Richard Sims
> > 404 Troop
> > Northridge, CA
> > _______________________________________________
> > Mog mailing list
> > Mog at tx4x4.com
> > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> > brought to you by http://www.installer.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
 		 	   		  

From cjguiao at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 11:04:36 2010
From: cjguiao at gmail.com (Christopher Guiao)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:04:36 -0700
Subject: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <BLU106-W26635A44735C020CE8BBCEEF890@phx.gbl>
References: <870226.85062.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTikjKMOFEh+5oV_Woft7D8_eXUZGTF5bUk+JXLG2@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU106-W26635A44735C020CE8BBCEEF890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJbP+JxnM0v0NzGGX=jAvvZZ4gkPF4pVU4FVNe@mail.gmail.com>

Well, I'll see if I can line up a transmission this weekend, throw it in the
back of my rover to save on shipping if it's only 450 lbs. If it's really
just a two day job, I'll look at getting a bay in the hobby shop.
Thankfully, our shop on base has a well stocked tool room.

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:32 AM, gerald vavra <kimosawboy1 at hotmail.com>wrote:

>
> When I did my tranny last year I think the weight on the weigh bill was
> 450lb (in crate).
> Look at 2 days with 2 guys should give you ample time. Just make sure you
> have all the extra bits you might need, I'm sure Scott will hook you up
> right. Also make sure you have ample lifting straps, chains,jacks.........
> Good luck
>
> G. Vavra
> 66 404.1 Doka
> 71 416 with Crane
> Courtenay, BC
>
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 01:04:56 -0700
> > From: cjguiao at gmail.com
> > To: mog at tx4x4.com
> > Subject: Re: [MOG] 404 Transmission Woes
> >
> > I haven't dug into this project yet, but I'll be in the california bay
> area
> > this weekend and if I can scrape up the funds, I'll pick up a
> transmission
> > from EI. Does anyone have the weight for one of these things without the
> > bellhousing? I have a very heavy, outfitted radio box, which I plan to
> leave
> > in place. As for the clutch, I was told it was new by the previous owner,
> > but I'll see for myself soon enough. How many man hours can I expect for
> the
> > tranny replacement, considering I haven't done it before? I've swapped
> > engines, trannys, axles etc before but never on a mog. With enough luck I
> > still might make it to truckhaven mogfest!
> >
> > On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:59 PM, Richard Sims <mog404 at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Christopher--
> > >
> > > Unless you've already done it.  You don't have to remove the bed or the
> > > box.  I've changed 404 trannys several times by just putting jack
> stands
> > > under the front frame and using a 1500 lb engine hoist to remove the
> cab and
> > > then the engine/trans combo.  I've done this as a one man job. You do
> have
> > > to drop the steering column and the front axle.  You can hook on to the
> cab
> > > according to the manual using the grab handles and a sling.  One of the
> > > problems I had was getting the floor board of the cab past the brake
> pedal,
> > > but that was easily solved by opening a bleed valve and tying the pedal
> > > down.   I separated the rear drive shaft at the universal joint.  As
> > > previously suggested, its financially prudent and efficient to go ahead
> and
> > > replace  the clutch and throw out at this time. If you have the
> facilities
> > > available, resurface the flywheel too!
> > >
> > > Richard Sims
> > > 404 Troop
> > > Northridge, CA
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Mog mailing list
> > > Mog at tx4x4.com
> > > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> > > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> > > brought to you by http://www.installer.com
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Mog mailing list
> > Mog at tx4x4.com
> > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> > http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> > brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>

From rcgerrish at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 30 11:48:47 2010
From: rcgerrish at yahoo.com (Ryan Gerrish)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:48:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [MOG] NWMF HD Video
In-Reply-To: <FFFDB3A957F94F958C3CC2768233B1EE@EMILIE>
References: <AANLkTikuoXAtBcW90xgu6XD=fyENyKcaO9W9KSZXXRb=@mail.gmail.com>
	<FFFDB3A957F94F958C3CC2768233B1EE@EMILIE>
Message-ID: <501295.55007.qm@web62501.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I shot a bit of HD video on my HD Hero Go Pro camera, including some 'ride 
along' footage on various trucks. (And people;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z383to75USw&hd=1

Enjoy!



________________________________


      

From unimog at comcast.net  Mon Aug 30 12:04:08 2010
From: unimog at comcast.net (Unimog)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:04:08 -0500
Subject: [MOG] Midwest Moggers???????
References: <AANLkTimPt+yiWw3PyE61E=f5b69w7eytTJvukiSCigB8@mail.gmail.com><451601.85473.qm@web32208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTik5jo-czqQSiGOEk4H+MSKi9DaxJCCts4LT86TH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D8207F33575E42688D0B5D2F96B5B8B4@bulletbaron>

Just curious if there any Unimog Owners in the Chicagoland area, I see that most are out west & the mountains.

Let me know, I am in NW Indiana

Dennis

From solutions at incendocreative.com  Mon Aug 30 12:08:17 2010
From: solutions at incendocreative.com (solutions at incendocreative.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:08:17 -0700
Subject: [MOG] BMW 1200 GS Adventure    ????
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-DS1243E2988E1C057B35F605C5880@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-DS55773833D89E2ADC83576C5870@phx.gbl>
	<000101cb4736$03b76db0$0b264910$@com>
	<SNT124-DS1243E2988E1C057B35F605C5880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B24CC051-EA08-41A0-A9C0-108EF61A4322@incendocreative.com>

Hi David

I've recently sold my R1200GS Adventure and can attest to the fact that its one of the best bikes in the world. The bike could do everything . . . from long stretches on the slab, to gravel roads, dirt, sand, etc. I loved my GSA and only sold it in order to kick-start my savings for a Mog. However, in spite of my great love for the GSA, I probably would not buy one again. Instead I'd purchase an F800GS. Although not quite as comfy on long stretches of highway as the GSA, the F800 is MUCH nicer to ride through traffic, around town, etc. It is lighter and slimmer than the GSA and feels a lot more nimble. It's also more fun and more capable off road . . . although a GSA in the hands of a top-notch rider (I do not include myself in that category) can go just about anywhere. As one of the other members pointed out, www.advrider.com is a great resource  . . .  although it can become quite addictive!

Good luck with your decision. 

Cheers
Simon



On 2010-08-29, at 10:14 AM, David Ashley wrote:

> Robert, Paul, Jim, Rick, Francis and everyone else thank you for the support
> of information and links.  
> 
> I should have mentioned that in years past I have commuted about 53,000
> miles worth up and down i5 and I405 in the Seattle area on a K1200LT "Think
> big like a gold wing" bike.  Honestly the biggest advantage in the Seattle
> area with a motorcycle is the ability to ride in the carpool lane.
> Unfortunately WA has a law against sharing a lane with someone so it kind of
> makes lane splitting not so legal, but on the odd occasion I have passed the
> inattentive cager. 
> 
> Unfortunately a bike .. any bike is still at least 6 months away unless I
> find a screaming deal but knowing where to go and look is nice.  I may also
> end up with a TDI or maybe even renting an apt closer to work just to save
> my sanity.  Carpooling maybe an option but the work schedule is going to be
> a pain with monthly changes.  In the meantime I will read up on some of
> these great sites.. and keep my eyes open. 
> 
> Thanks again to the list and everyone for their help on this issue and
> Unimog issues. 
> 
> 
> David Ashley 
> 87 U1250 VL 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mog-bounces at tx4x4.com [mailto:mog-bounces at tx4x4.com] On Behalf Of
> Robert S. Cascaddan
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 9:53 PM
> To: 'Mog Mailing List'
> Subject: Re: [MOG] BMW 1200 GS Adventure ????
> 
> I commute year-round on a motorcycle.  I live in the Inland Empire of
> Southern California and have been on a motorcycle in rain, in temperatures
> down to the teens, with ice on the ground, and in the heat of the Coachella
> Valley in the summertime.  I don't own a BMW 1200 GS Adventure, but I have
> ridden it and it is the bike I would like to own when I can afford it.  (I
> just replaced a dead `84 Goldwing with a 2008 KLR 650.)  I used to work as a
> motorcycle courier and have lane-split more miles than most people ride in
> their entire life.  I have owned a couple of older BMW's and am a big fan of
> them.  They are the only motorcycle built specifically for commuting.  I
> think that a motorcycle is the only way to commute in Southern California.
> It does require a certain level of commitment, however.  Hit me off-list,
> and I will be glad to go into more detail.  
> 
> Bob
> scaddan at verizon.com 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mog-bounces at tx4x4.com [mailto:mog-bounces at tx4x4.com] On Behalf Of
> David Ashley
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 9:12 AM
> To: 'Mog Mailing List'
> Subject: [MOG] BMW 1200 GS Adventure ????
> 
> I know this isn't exactly Unimog topic  but with an upcoming employment
> option I'm looking at 100+ mile a day in commuting and I'm thinking a Bike
> maybe more of a friend then my 3500 Dully dodge LOL     I know someone here
> must ride and or read about the BMW 1200 GS Adventure  and must know of a
> few web site to recommend for reading?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Ashley 
> 
> 87 U1250 VL 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com



From twlane57 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 12:15:43 2010
From: twlane57 at gmail.com (terry lane)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:15:43 -0700
Subject: [MOG] Midwest Moggers???????
In-Reply-To: <D8207F33575E42688D0B5D2F96B5B8B4@bulletbaron>
References: <AANLkTimPt+yiWw3PyE61E=f5b69w7eytTJvukiSCigB8@mail.gmail.com>
	<451601.85473.qm@web32208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTik5jo-czqQSiGOEk4H+MSKi9DaxJCCts4LT86TH@mail.gmail.com>
	<D8207F33575E42688D0B5D2F96B5B8B4@bulletbaron>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinJRxYdXvUmY-CfC6uG-qC63DkPxG9Fowr7mA2X@mail.gmail.com>

Dennis--you have Mike Guffy near Chicago. North Eastern Indiana area.
---Local mogger there.
Tlane

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 10:04 AM, Unimog <unimog at comcast.net> wrote:

> Just curious if there any Unimog Owners in the Chicagoland area, I see that
> most are out west & the mountains.
>
> Let me know, I am in NW Indiana
>
> Dennis
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>

From palas.family at cfu.net  Mon Aug 30 13:07:00 2010
From: palas.family at cfu.net (Red Hat Linux User)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:07:00 -0500
Subject: [MOG] Midwest Moggers???????
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinJRxYdXvUmY-CfC6uG-qC63DkPxG9Fowr7mA2X@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPt+yiWw3PyE61E=f5b69w7eytTJvukiSCigB8@mail.gmail.com>
	<451601.85473.qm@web32208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTik5jo-czqQSiGOEk4H+MSKi9DaxJCCts4LT86TH@mail.gmail.com>
	<D8207F33575E42688D0B5D2F96B5B8B4@bulletbaron>
	<AANLkTinJRxYdXvUmY-CfC6uG-qC63DkPxG9Fowr7mA2X@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=eC19wMg1bY8TVW6Y-t1i6b-dRnLRxEdYMGBmE@mail.gmail.com>

A few still thrive in NE Iowa.

J Palas

From veggiemog at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 30 13:18:04 2010
From: veggiemog at yahoo.com (Kelly)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 11:18:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [MOG] NWMF HD Video
In-Reply-To: <501295.55007.qm@web62501.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTikuoXAtBcW90xgu6XD=fyENyKcaO9W9KSZXXRb=@mail.gmail.com>
	<FFFDB3A957F94F958C3CC2768233B1EE@EMILIE>
	<501295.55007.qm@web62501.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <661836.19788.qm@web55803.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

AWESOME!

I love the underwater shots of Bug. I need to get one of those. Maybe a Hero Go 
Pro too.


Kelly
Industrious Dog LLC
www.industriousdog.com
Prototyping and signs for the fearless



From wyhaines at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 15:42:46 2010
From: wyhaines at gmail.com (Kirk Haines)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:42:46 -0600
Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?
Message-ID: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>

I have continued to have sporadic problems with my 404.1 w/ M130 and
Weber carbs. It would run great for 30 miles of highway, or 5 or 15,
then start burbling out the exhaust and losing power.  Or it'd run
like poo, then I'd stop for a few minutes, and when I took off again,
it was running right.  Or sometimes switch from good to bad and back
to good over the course of a few miles on the dirt roads, or while
hauling things around the homestead.

The fuel pump is solid.  Fuel pressure is right. Fuel delivery is
smooth and consistent.  Filters were all clean. Plug wires and plugs
good. Air intake clean and clear. Jets were clean. All the linkages
working right. Carbs are tuned alright. Vacuum tube from carb to
distributor could stand to be replaced, but seems fully intact. Carbs
don't seem like they are loose, so didn't seem like a vacuum leak
around their gaskets.  New rotor. Points look OK.  Cap looks OK (but
both should be replaced because they aren't very new).

So I was very frustrated.

The other day I, based entirely on impulse and not logical thought,
pulled the distributor cap off and sprayed a couple second blast of
WD-40 into it, keeping it clear of the points.  Then, I started the
truck up.  It ran a little like the typical way it runs when it's
burbling and not burning quite right for about 10 seconds, then that
cleared up and it's been running like it should ever since.  I've put
about two and a half hours onto it since then, with no problems at
all.  All from a shot of WD-40 into the distributor?


Kirk Haines
1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180


From FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG  Mon Aug 30 15:47:24 2010
From: FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG (Debros, Frederic M.,Md)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:47:24 -0400
Subject: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>

you have an m130  and an  m180....which one is faster and does it make a
difference?
 
fred

________________________________

From: mog-bounces at tx4x4.com on behalf of Kirk Haines
Sent: Mon 8/30/2010 4:42 PM
To: Mog Mailing List
Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?



I have continued to have sporadic problems with my 404.1 w/ M130 and
Weber carbs. It would run great for 30 miles of highway, or 5 or 15,
then start burbling out the exhaust and losing power.  Or it'd run
like poo, then I'd stop for a few minutes, and when I took off again,
it was running right.  Or sometimes switch from good to bad and back
to good over the course of a few miles on the dirt roads, or while
hauling things around the homestead.

The fuel pump is solid.  Fuel pressure is right. Fuel delivery is
smooth and consistent.  Filters were all clean. Plug wires and plugs
good. Air intake clean and clear. Jets were clean. All the linkages
working right. Carbs are tuned alright. Vacuum tube from carb to
distributor could stand to be replaced, but seems fully intact. Carbs
don't seem like they are loose, so didn't seem like a vacuum leak
around their gaskets.  New rotor. Points look OK.  Cap looks OK (but
both should be replaced because they aren't very new).

So I was very frustrated.

The other day I, based entirely on impulse and not logical thought,
pulled the distributor cap off and sprayed a couple second blast of
WD-40 into it, keeping it clear of the points.  Then, I started the
truck up.  It ran a little like the typical way it runs when it's
burbling and not burning quite right for about 10 seconds, then that
cleared up and it's been running like it should ever since.  I've put
about two and a half hours onto it since then, with no problems at
all.  All from a shot of WD-40 into the distributor?


Kirk Haines
1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180

_______________________________________________
Mog mailing list
Mog at tx4x4.com
http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
brought to you by http://www.installer.com <http://www.installer.com/> 




The information in this e-mail is intended only for the person to whom it is
addressed. If you believe this e-mail was sent to you in error and the e-mail
contains patient information, please contact the Partners Compliance HelpLine at
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but does not contain patient information, please contact the sender and properly
dispose of the e-mail.

From unimog61 at shaw.ca  Mon Aug 30 16:01:54 2010
From: unimog61 at shaw.ca (Paul)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:01:54 -0700
Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C8A16A52.5C9%unimog61@shaw.ca>

I guess there was some water under the cap.

Paul


On 10-08-30 1:42 PM, "Kirk Haines" <wyhaines at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have continued to have sporadic problems with my 404.1 w/ M130 and
> Weber carbs. It would run great for 30 miles of highway, or 5 or 15,
> then start burbling out the exhaust and losing power.  Or it'd run
> like poo, then I'd stop for a few minutes, and when I took off again,
> it was running right.  Or sometimes switch from good to bad and back
> to good over the course of a few miles on the dirt roads, or while
> hauling things around the homestead.
> 
> The fuel pump is solid.  Fuel pressure is right. Fuel delivery is
> smooth and consistent.  Filters were all clean. Plug wires and plugs
> good. Air intake clean and clear. Jets were clean. All the linkages
> working right. Carbs are tuned alright. Vacuum tube from carb to
> distributor could stand to be replaced, but seems fully intact. Carbs
> don't seem like they are loose, so didn't seem like a vacuum leak
> around their gaskets.  New rotor. Points look OK.  Cap looks OK (but
> both should be replaced because they aren't very new).
> 
> So I was very frustrated.
> 
> The other day I, based entirely on impulse and not logical thought,
> pulled the distributor cap off and sprayed a couple second blast of
> WD-40 into it, keeping it clear of the points.  Then, I started the
> truck up.  It ran a little like the typical way it runs when it's
> burbling and not burning quite right for about 10 seconds, then that
> cleared up and it's been running like it should ever since.  I've put
> about two and a half hours onto it since then, with no problems at
> all.  All from a shot of WD-40 into the distributor?
> 
> 
> Kirk Haines
> 1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
> 1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mog mailing list
> Mog at tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
> http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
> brought to you by http://www.installer.com




From wyhaines at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 16:16:19 2010
From: wyhaines at gmail.com (Kirk Haines)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:16:19 -0600
Subject: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?
In-Reply-To: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik6cjvWmEofWEiR+qRWW0mJj0-noH-mYgJTQf9O@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 2:47 PM, Debros, Frederic M.,Md
<FDEBROS at partners.org> wrote:
> you have an m130 ?and an ?m180....which one is faster and does it make a
> difference?

The M130.  Hands down.  The M180 was never a weak runner, but the M130
is great to drive.  I have a self imposed speed limit of 80kph,
generally. I might creep to 85kph now and again, but usually try to
average no more than 80kph.  So, either one will pull those speeds.
The difference, though, is that I CAN go a lot faster a lot more
easily with the M130. Where I notice it is hills.  Driving around SE
Wyoming, at altitudes of 4000-5000 feet, I don't need to downshift on
any of the normal paved roads, and that makes driving it on the
highway a lot nicer.

I also have a 1972 250 sedan with an M130 in it, and while it won't
snap your neck with acceleration, it is very nice to drive because it
is very smooth power, and it seems like at any reasonable highway
speeds it always has enough torque to go faster if needed for passing.

However, you do pay for the M130 in your 404.1 in some other respects.

The Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs from the sedans, that were the original
equipment, are just monsters to try to get tuned if they are not
adjusted right.  Weber 32/36 DG*V carbs are, with the spacer kit from
them, a very simple bolt-on upgrade, BUT you have to figure out how to
make your throttle linkage work (the moggy one just doesn't work right
with the Weber carbs), route a choke cable if you go with a manual
choke (and I am still having problems with mine -- the cable needs to
take a sharper turn than it wants to, so it binds up), and potentially
deal with air cleaner fitment issues.  Solve those things, and the
Webers are great, at least for on-highway and modestly off-camber
stuff.  I haven't had the truck on anything with really wild angles to
get a good sense of what the limits of the Webers are, though.

The 32NDIX carbs from the M180 won't bolt directly up to the sedan
manifolds. So, using them is an option only if one wants to do more
work. They would have the advantage of having great off-camber
behavior, but probably don't deliver quite the performance of the
Webers.

Also, there is a difference in heat production from the M130.  It
produces a LOT more. I had a faulty thermostat that was causing me to
overheat grossly on even cool days, so I just yanked it out since
right now the days are still quite warm, and now the truck will stay
passably cool even on 100 degree days, so long as I'm not high revving
too much at 1st or 2nd gear speeds.  On my todo list before next
summer, though, is to get a new radiator built, as the existing one
(which was, from the looks of it, custom-cobbled for the truck after
the engine was swapped) seems like it could be improved upon.

I'm not sure if I'd do it for a truck that is going to see a lot of
highway miles in order to get to places to drive offroad, or a lot of
onroad use hauling things around, but for a more dedicated offroad
rig, I would _seriously_ consider propane.

I have a couple of engines -- an M180 with HC head and another M130,
and I am considering making one of my trucks a dedicated offroad truck
running on propane with either the HC head or an M130 swap. It would
eliminate all those pesky carb/fuel pump issues, and would reliably
run no matter how off camber the truck becomes.


Kirk Haines
1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180


From wyhaines at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 16:18:22 2010
From: wyhaines at gmail.com (Kirk Haines)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:18:22 -0600
Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?
In-Reply-To: <C8A16A52.5C9%unimog61@shaw.ca>
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
	<C8A16A52.5C9%unimog61@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=KSZ=DHdMm-maKQ=5Yfd005Cp1D27_rFRX6nBg@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 3:01 PM, Paul <unimog61 at shaw.ca> wrote:
> I guess there was some water under the cap.

Yeah, maybe.  I would have thought, so long as I have had the truck,
though, that any water would have evaporated.  But I can't argue with
the night and day result.  A 2 second squirt has given me more
great-running miles with this truck than I have had since I bought it
(a year ago).


Kirk Haines


From unimog at comcast.net  Mon Aug 30 16:26:14 2010
From: unimog at comcast.net (Unimog)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:26:14 -0500
Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6739DAA67E464836A787E5547193DC02@bulletbaron>

Water Dispersal Formula  40

So I have been told, makes even more sense now

Dennis
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Kirk Haines 
  To: Mog Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 3:42 PM
  Subject: [MOG] And....WD-40 fixes it?


  I have continued to have sporadic problems with my 404.1 w/ M130 and
  Weber carbs. It would run great for 30 miles of highway, or 5 or 15,
  then start burbling out the exhaust and losing power.  Or it'd run
  like poo, then I'd stop for a few minutes, and when I took off again,
  it was running right.  Or sometimes switch from good to bad and back
  to good over the course of a few miles on the dirt roads, or while
  hauling things around the homestead.

  The fuel pump is solid.  Fuel pressure is right. Fuel delivery is
  smooth and consistent.  Filters were all clean. Plug wires and plugs
  good. Air intake clean and clear. Jets were clean. All the linkages
  working right. Carbs are tuned alright. Vacuum tube from carb to
  distributor could stand to be replaced, but seems fully intact. Carbs
  don't seem like they are loose, so didn't seem like a vacuum leak
  around their gaskets.  New rotor. Points look OK.  Cap looks OK (but
  both should be replaced because they aren't very new).

  So I was very frustrated.

  The other day I, based entirely on impulse and not logical thought,
  pulled the distributor cap off and sprayed a couple second blast of
  WD-40 into it, keeping it clear of the points.  Then, I started the
  truck up.  It ran a little like the typical way it runs when it's
  burbling and not burning quite right for about 10 seconds, then that
  cleared up and it's been running like it should ever since.  I've put
  about two and a half hours onto it since then, with no problems at
  all.  All from a shot of WD-40 into the distributor?


  Kirk Haines
  1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
  1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180

  _______________________________________________
  Mog mailing list
  Mog at tx4x4.com
  http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
  http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
  brought to you by http://www.installer.com

From FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG  Mon Aug 30 17:36:34 2010
From: FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG (Debros, Frederic M.,Md)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:36:34 -0400
Subject: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com><FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
	<AANLkTik6cjvWmEofWEiR+qRWW0mJj0-noH-mYgJTQf9O@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05899@PHSXMB6.partners.org>

interesting, thanks.
 
there are the 12.5r20 tires that will add oomph too on the highway.
then there is the fuel injected m130 but then you get in trouble with not enough
air ...
i have toyed with the idea of an m130 upgrade to my rustbucket but gave up
because of costs vs benefit.
i went for a dumpster conversion instead, lost of course the flexibility of the
chassis but for my use that will do.
 
but i sure dont get 85kph out of my 180! 60 max. 
 
next time i get a belgian  pritsche 404.0 with the pto....
 
best fred
 

________________________________

From: mog-bounces at tx4x4.com on behalf of Kirk Haines
Sent: Mon 8/30/2010 5:16 PM
To: Mog Mailing List
Subject: Re: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?



On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 2:47 PM, Debros, Frederic M.,Md
<FDEBROS at partners.org> wrote:
> you have an m130  and an  m180....which one is faster and does it make a
> difference?

The M130.  Hands down.  The M180 was never a weak runner, but the M130
is great to drive.  I have a self imposed speed limit of 80kph,
generally. I might creep to 85kph now and again, but usually try to
average no more than 80kph.  So, either one will pull those speeds.
The difference, though, is that I CAN go a lot faster a lot more
easily with the M130. Where I notice it is hills.  Driving around SE
Wyoming, at altitudes of 4000-5000 feet, I don't need to downshift on
any of the normal paved roads, and that makes driving it on the
highway a lot nicer.

I also have a 1972 250 sedan with an M130 in it, and while it won't
snap your neck with acceleration, it is very nice to drive because it
is very smooth power, and it seems like at any reasonable highway
speeds it always has enough torque to go faster if needed for passing.

However, you do pay for the M130 in your 404.1 in some other respects.

The Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs from the sedans, that were the original
equipment, are just monsters to try to get tuned if they are not
adjusted right.  Weber 32/36 DG*V carbs are, with the spacer kit from
them, a very simple bolt-on upgrade, BUT you have to figure out how to
make your throttle linkage work (the moggy one just doesn't work right
with the Weber carbs), route a choke cable if you go with a manual
choke (and I am still having problems with mine -- the cable needs to
take a sharper turn than it wants to, so it binds up), and potentially
deal with air cleaner fitment issues.  Solve those things, and the
Webers are great, at least for on-highway and modestly off-camber
stuff.  I haven't had the truck on anything with really wild angles to
get a good sense of what the limits of the Webers are, though.

The 32NDIX carbs from the M180 won't bolt directly up to the sedan
manifolds. So, using them is an option only if one wants to do more
work. They would have the advantage of having great off-camber
behavior, but probably don't deliver quite the performance of the
Webers.

Also, there is a difference in heat production from the M130.  It
produces a LOT more. I had a faulty thermostat that was causing me to
overheat grossly on even cool days, so I just yanked it out since
right now the days are still quite warm, and now the truck will stay
passably cool even on 100 degree days, so long as I'm not high revving
too much at 1st or 2nd gear speeds.  On my todo list before next
summer, though, is to get a new radiator built, as the existing one
(which was, from the looks of it, custom-cobbled for the truck after
the engine was swapped) seems like it could be improved upon.

I'm not sure if I'd do it for a truck that is going to see a lot of
highway miles in order to get to places to drive offroad, or a lot of
onroad use hauling things around, but for a more dedicated offroad
rig, I would _seriously_ consider propane.

I have a couple of engines -- an M180 with HC head and another M130,
and I am considering making one of my trucks a dedicated offroad truck
running on propane with either the HC head or an M130 swap. It would
eliminate all those pesky carb/fuel pump issues, and would reliably
run no matter how off camber the truck becomes.


Kirk Haines
1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180

_______________________________________________
Mog mailing list
Mog at tx4x4.com
http://tx4x4.com/mailman/listinfo/mog_tx4x4.com
http://tx4x4.com/mailman/options/mog_tx4x4.com
brought to you by http://www.installer.com <http://www.installer.com/> 




The information in this e-mail is intended only for the person to whom it is
addressed. If you believe this e-mail was sent to you in error and the e-mail
contains patient information, please contact the Partners Compliance HelpLine at
http://www.partners.org/complianceline . If the e-mail was sent to you in error
but does not contain patient information, please contact the sender and properly
dispose of the e-mail.

From FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG  Mon Aug 30 17:45:58 2010
From: FDEBROS at PARTNERS.ORG (Debros, Frederic M.,Md)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:45:58 -0400
Subject: [MOG] 404 window replacement....lessons learned
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com><C8A16A52.5C9%unimog61@shaw.ca>
	<AANLkTi=KSZ=DHdMm-maKQ=5Yfd005Cp1D27_rFRX6nBg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B0589A@PHSXMB6.partners.org>

I intuitively knew this was not a diy project
 
so i found a shop that replaces jeep windows in town. fine.
first they could not take the window off, so i did it with help
then they were squeamish at taking it apart, so i brought it  back to my
mechanic.
then he had to drill out and retap all bolts holding the frame  together after
busting the other window pane heating the bolts  up to drill the rusty ones
out....
now back to the shop and onto the truck, 
 
whats the next surprise?
 
the bill: close to 1000.-- bux
 
jim ince has frames or entire new windows for under 300.--
 
and he told me so....... two lessons learned.
 
fred


The information in this e-mail is intended only for the person to whom it is
addressed. If you believe this e-mail was sent to you in error and the e-mail
contains patient information, please contact the Partners Compliance HelpLine at
http://www.partners.org/complianceline . If the e-mail was sent to you in error
but does not contain patient information, please contact the sender and properly
dispose of the e-mail.

From scott at expedition-imports.com  Mon Aug 30 17:59:56 2010
From: scott at expedition-imports.com (Scott Ingham)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:59:56 -0700
Subject: [MOG] 404 window replacement....lessons learned
In-Reply-To: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B0589A@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com><C8A16A52.5C9%unimog61@shaw.ca>	<AANLkTi=KSZ=DHdMm-maKQ=5Yfd005Cp1D27_rFRX6nBg@mail.gmail.com>
	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B0589A@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
Message-ID: <02de01cb4897$113eeff0$33bccfd0$@com>

Brand new NOS units in perfect condition for $205, including the knobs, etc.
On some of this stuff it is definitely better to ask for an estimate prior
to rebuild, you can quite often come out far ahead. 

http://www.expedition-imports.com/product/4046700201/4046700201---Complete-W
indshield-in-the-MBZ-Crate.html

Had a similar call last week on the 404 engine long block rebuild.  $4500
later he was a little shocked when it came from the machine shop......


Cheers,

Scott Ingham
Expedition Imports
225 Bennett Ave., Ste A
Vallejo, CA  94590
Phone - 707-643-6757
Fax - 707-643-2998
www.expedition-imports.com


-----Original Message-----
From: mog-bounces at tx4x4.com [mailto:mog-bounces at tx4x4.com] On Behalf Of
Debros, Frederic M.,Md
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 3:46 PM
To: Mog Mailing List
Subject: [MOG] 404 window replacement....lessons learned

I intuitively knew this was not a diy project
 
so i found a shop that replaces jeep windows in town. fine.
first they could not take the window off, so i did it with help then they
were squeamish at taking it apart, so i brought it  back to my mechanic.
then he had to drill out and retap all bolts holding the frame  together
after busting the other window pane heating the bolts  up to drill the rusty
ones out....
now back to the shop and onto the truck, 
 
whats the next surprise?
 
the bill: close to 1000.-- bux
 



From wyhaines at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 18:30:38 2010
From: wyhaines at gmail.com (Kirk Haines)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 17:30:38 -0600
Subject: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?
In-Reply-To: <FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05899@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>
	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
	<AANLkTik6cjvWmEofWEiR+qRWW0mJj0-noH-mYgJTQf9O@mail.gmail.com>
	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05899@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinwhVSdTQkJVk5rJOjpdoTA54ZncTznYvM5sDd3@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 4:36 PM, Debros, Frederic M.,Md
<FDEBROS at partners.org> wrote:
> interesting, thanks.
>
> there are the 12.5r20 tires that will add oomph too on the highway.

The larger tires add speed at the expense of torque.


> but i sure dont get 85kph out of my 180! 60 max.

60 max?  Uh....Does it run on all 6 cylinders?  Seriously, if your
carb is clean, with decent gaskets, and even approximately tuned
right, you have proper air flow and fuel flow, and your ignition
system is working, you should do better than that unless your engine
is just completely shot. Make sure your carb is tuned, and the jets
are clean.  Clean plugs, and good wires. Make sure your timing is
right on your dist. Bad timing will kill your performance.  The engine
likes to run pretty advanced.  Open your distributor up and make sure
the advance springs are clean and are in good condition, and that the
weights are both attached as they should be. If there is something
wrong with the mechanical advance, your power will be terrible, too.

While you are at it, pull the valve cover and make sure your valves
are adjusted right. You can get a special valve adjustment tool, which
makes the job really easy, or you can get by with a 14mm crow's foot.
You might need to do a little modification, depending on what you end
up with if you make a tool yourself, but you can get the job done.

I had no problem running mine at 100kph even here at altitude, so long
as I wasn't on a noticable incline. The M180 was no rocket ship, but
it could still push the truck way faster than was prudent for the
transmission.


Kirk Haines
1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180


From rcgerrish at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 30 18:30:50 2010
From: rcgerrish at yahoo.com (Ryan Gerrish)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:30:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [MOG] OT: Mercedes T2 Van info?
In-Reply-To: <4156d.62aff41b.39a59d8c@aol.com>
References: <4156d.62aff41b.39a59d8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <371507.3303.qm@web62507.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I've read the Wikipedia entry for the T2 mercedes vans, but I'm interested in 
more info such as capacities, speed, engine types, etc, than the wiki gives. Can 
anyone point me toward some sites with more info? 408, 508, 608's etc...

Thanks!
Ryan



      

From datz510 at cox.net  Mon Aug 30 19:11:22 2010
From: datz510 at cox.net (John James)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 17:11:22 -0700
Subject: [MOG] WD-40 fixes it?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinwhVSdTQkJVk5rJOjpdoTA54ZncTznYvM5sDd3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinMMw3O=7sLuox02ZMeMYJ2VcmrryDWvPEg7VFh@mail.gmail.com>	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05898@PHSXMB6.partners.org>	<AANLkTik6cjvWmEofWEiR+qRWW0mJj0-noH-mYgJTQf9O@mail.gmail.com>	<FEF6459A70AA124884A22F9FC7C271C707B05899@PHSXMB6.partners.org>
	<AANLkTinwhVSdTQkJVk5rJOjpdoTA54ZncTznYvM5sDd3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C7C48AA.7030503@cox.net>

I regularly get 100-104kph out of my Radio box 404 w/ m180.  In good 
tune, these trucks do OK on the freeway, as long as there is no 
incline.   ;)

Kirk Haines wrote:
> On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 4:36 PM, Debros, Frederic M.,Md
> <FDEBROS at partners.org> wrote:
>   
>> interesting, thanks.
>>
>> there are the 12.5r20 tires that will add oomph too on the highway.
>>     
>
> The larger tires add speed at the expense of torque.
>
>
>   
>> but i sure dont get 85kph out of my 180! 60 max.
>>     
>
> 60 max?  Uh....Does it run on all 6 cylinders?  Seriously, if your
> carb is clean, with decent gaskets, and even approximately tuned
> right, you have proper air flow and fuel flow, and your ignition
> system is working, you should do better than that unless your engine
> is just completely shot. Make sure your carb is tuned, and the jets
> are clean.  Clean plugs, and good wires. Make sure your timing is
> right on your dist. Bad timing will kill your performance.  The engine
> likes to run pretty advanced.  Open your distributor up and make sure
> the advance springs are clean and are in good condition, and that the
> weights are both attached as they should be. If there is something
> wrong with the mechanical advance, your power will be terrible, too.
>
> While you are at it, pull the valve cover and make sure your valves
> are adjusted right. You can get a special valve adjustment tool, which
> makes the job really easy, or you can get by with a 14mm crow's foot.
> You might need to do a little modification, depending on what you end
> up with if you make a tool yourself, but you can get the job done.
>
> I had no problem running mine at 100kph even here at altitude, so long
> as I wasn't on a noticable incline. The M180 was no rocket ship, but
> it could still push the truck way faster than was prudent for the
> transmission.
>
>
> Kirk Haines
> 1960 German 404.1 w/ M130
> 1963 Swiss 404.1 w/ M180
>
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> Mog at tx4x4.com
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> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>
>   



From jim.ince at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 19:24:18 2010
From: jim.ince at gmail.com (Jim Ince)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 17:24:18 -0700
Subject: [MOG] OT: Mercedes T2 Van info?
In-Reply-To: <371507.3303.qm@web62507.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <4156d.62aff41b.39a59d8c@aol.com>
	<371507.3303.qm@web62507.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D249D8FF-6EF4-4F83-87B8-3EB1E5C365E8@gmail.com>

Hey Ryan,

To legally haul 2 tons, you'll probably need at least an L-608-D,  
although I've carried way more in my various L-508-Ds off road.

It also depends on axle and suspension options, ex-works.  If you'd  
like me to send basic info on the 608, like engine types, etc., let's  
talk off-list.

~jim at EuroTech

Sent from my cell phone.


On Aug 30, 2010, at 4:30 PM, Ryan Gerrish <rcgerrish at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I've read the Wikipedia entry for the T2 mercedes vans, but I'm  
> interested in
> more info such as capacities, speed, engine types, etc, than the  
> wiki gives. Can
> anyone point me toward some sites with more info? 408, 508, 608's  
> etc...
>
> Thanks!
> Ryan
>
>
>
>
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> brought to you by http://www.installer.com


From tkv000 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 30 22:13:54 2010
From: tkv000 at gmail.com (Trevor V)
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:13:54 -0600
Subject: [MOG] NWMF HD Video
In-Reply-To: <661836.19788.qm@web55803.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTikuoXAtBcW90xgu6XD=fyENyKcaO9W9KSZXXRb=@mail.gmail.com>
	<FFFDB3A957F94F958C3CC2768233B1EE@EMILIE>
	<501295.55007.qm@web62501.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
	<661836.19788.qm@web55803.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikArAuAj9EY+tn2ybrJD3+9eYvh=VSyPYpd+V6p@mail.gmail.com>

If the first 1:21 is any indication, it looks awesome! I'll have to leave it
load overnight on my damn dial up like wireless :(

-Trev

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Kelly <veggiemog at yahoo.com> wrote:

> AWESOME!
>
> I love the underwater shots of Bug. I need to get one of those. Maybe a
> Hero Go
> Pro too.
>
>
> Kelly
> Industrious Dog LLC
> www.industriousdog.com
> Prototyping and signs for the fearless
>
>
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> Mog at tx4x4.com
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> brought to you by http://www.installer.com
>